COMMON QUESTIONS ANSWERED
Q: What's the best way to be friends with my new bunny?
A: Sit with them, let them explore with you nearby, offer little treats from your hand, and talk to them softly. Try just little forehead only tickles and go from there, all of mine can handle that without insult even if they’re being moody. It’s how the mother licks their forehead, they kinda dive in holding their heads straight out for it once they know you know how to do it. A nose bump is a complement!
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Q: Can I give my bunny treats right away?
A: You can do little tidbits right away as long as they always have free access to the rabbit pellets and a bit of dry hay like Timothy... a rule of thumb that’s good is like no more than around 1/4 bunny’s head size a day in fresh treats, apple carrot and banana are favs, dark green like kale n broccoli, but avoid light greens for rabbits as they often cause diarrhea...lettuce and celery for example. In Flemish of all ages, too many treats or restricting pellets can cause GI-stasis which is a life threatening emergency in rabbits. No hay can cause tooth and gut issues later in life. Correctly maintaining your rabbit's diet is a safety priority.
Q: What if my new rabbit is scared?
A: So first, rabbits are prey animals so refrain from chasing grabbing or movement/ swooping from above like a bird of prey with hands. Let him have his safe space and cubby. He’ll be missing his family and scared of the new home just like an eight week old puppy or kitten so give him lots of time and quiet; sit with him, read, talk on the phone or sing. Bring treats like baby carrot apple slice or alfalfa and hold in your hand patiently. Let him come out of his cubby to you out of curiosity. Once he starts to feel safe there, he loves pets on the forehead and, once that’s accepted, his back too. They don’t like the sides or underside touched as much, if at all. Once he’s bonded to you he’ll seek out pets and bump you with his nose and even play (binky) when you come around. If you need to catch your rabbit *never chase grab yell or pounce.* Instead, kinda gently herd the rabbit into a corner and calmly ask the rabbit to stay, until you can pet the forehead. They will squat down to accept the forehead pets. Then you can move on to full body pets and after that picking up. Building that communication and making interactions consensual will bring your bunny out of their shell. Your rabbit shouldn't be running/ hiding from you, kicking, or grunting, and never ever struggling in humans' grasp (their spine brakes so easy). If he is doing anything like this, back up in steps to build trust! Don't forget "the house rabbit society" has fantastic reading on rabbit body language, communication, and training.
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Q: How do I pick up a Flemish Giant?
A: Correct handling is a safety priority. Just be sure both "ends" of the rabbit are supported and he's NEVER dangling from his spine. When about to pick up a rabbit, I start with forehead pets, then cover the eyes so they kinda hunch down, and then scoop up the rabbit supporting under the armpits AND the hips/hind end firmly. I often switch to a "football" hold lightly squeezing the bunny to my torso to keep all legs supported. If you can keep eyes covered, that makes for the calmest bunny. If your bunny ever kicks or flails, you are doing it wrong and putting him at risk!
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Q: How often do they need the vet?
A: Generally, rabbits don’t need vet care. Most bunnies are fine their whole life. If they do have a traumatic event to their body or health, they often pass on quickly before it’s ongoing. So quick action in an event is important, but prevention is the best medicine.
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Q: Do they need shots or flea treatment?
A: Rabbits can’t get rabies so there’s no legal required vaccine. However, there is now a shot you can get them if you're at risk of them contacting rabbit hemorrhagic disease. Rabbits usually don’t go to play dates outside or eat random things like a dog, so it’s more about prevention of your rabbit contacting diseases. Some main things to avoid contact with include bird or other animal droppings and soggy ground. Medications are harsh for rabbits in general. So in areas with fleas prevention includes things like treating dogs and cats that will come in contact with the rabbit, keeping the rabbit indoors or in elevated cages, and natural remedies like lavender, cedar, or mint hung in sprigs around the cage but out of rabbit's reach.
Q: What are some more rabbit "home remedies"?
Bugs and parasites hate diatomaceous earth, which can be mixed on the ground, in and around hutches, and in food (for both external and internal parasite prevention). Apple cider vinegar in rabbits water for gut health and immunity boost. If bunny has runny poop or is stressed, a probiotic powder (like Probios) will help a lot; stick moistened finger tip in powder and rub on bunny's teeth/gums; be aware diarrhea can quickly become a vet emergency in rabbits. "Rabbit RX" natural remedy in water for immune support, if they develop a slight runny nose or are in a stressful situation or travel (sneeze cough or thick/colored nose discharge is vet ASAP). Veterycin wound spray or eye spray for any minor cuts, wounds, skin or eye irritations. If the rabbit does get struck with parasites quick action is needed. I've had safe results from one (1) drop (yes one!) ivermectin cattle pour-on on the back of neck for an adult rabbit. Never use dog or cat medicine! Always consult a rabbit-friendly vet ASAP with any concerns.
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Q: What's wrong with alfalfa?
A: Alfalfa is like candy, they love it but it’s high sugar and good for older animals or ones needing weight. So only feed it like a treat (the danger of too much at once being diarrhea, and too much over a long period heart disease from being overweight). But Timothy or orchard grass is more balanced and what I like use, it’s safe to free-feed or fill nest boxes with.
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Q: Do they chew?
A: Yeah, they have to chew a lot as their teeth don’t stop growing. I’d give them wood blocks and other chew toys, a wooden house/box is great too. For house rabbits, tack chords higher than the bunny's reach, the chords look like roots or vines that are perfect to chew: because as prey animals they need clear runways for a speedy get away, anything they perceive as an obstacle or trip hazard they’ll chew to clear the path. So again, giving them things of their own to chew is important. Plus these rabbits generally LOVE toys!!! See some examples of play on the VIDEOS page.
Q: Why not put my new bunny in a big space right away?
Don't let your bunny out in a yard or large run before y'all bonded. Kinda like keeping a dog on leash until they have reliable recall, I'd refrain from letting him in a big space until he's coming up to your hands and knows you as "treat and pets person". Another issue with a big space too soon is the rabbit gets so excited/scared that they act feral. Once he knows his safe space, new family, and his way around his new home, this won't happen. Never let your bunny out if the space isn't fully secure.
Q: Is my rabbit too hot?
A: This is a safety priority. They’re not fond of heat at all, Flemish Giants are the malamutes of rabbits, Nordic creatures. They can suffer from heat stroke so when it’s nearing 100 our rabbits get frozen jugs rotated in their houses and they often love laying with them. They always have shade access. If your rabbit is drooling, panting, has their head tipped up, or rapid breathing through flared nostrils, bring them into a cooler space right away!
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Q: Do they get along with other pets?
A: Yes in a lot of situations. As prey animals, you MUST be sure your dog or other predator is trained, and always calm. They cannot play hunting, stalking, grabbing the rabbit games. Rabbits can die of a heart attack from a predator thats tormenting them even outside a cage or other side of a fence. Slow and CONTROLLED introductions to predators is a safety priority. Our rabbits are accustomed to calm dogs and cats, and once a friendship develops, they often follow each other around, boop snoots, and even cuddle or groom each other. See lots of lovely examples on the VIDEOS page and Pics from Adopters page. They do NOT mix with reptiles or birds because those animals have poop that carries germs dangerous to rabbits. Yes, this includes chickens and other farm birds: never let a bunny come in contact with the droppings from these birds it will shorten the rabbits life and lower quality of life to get those microbes in their digestive tract.
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Q: Do they get along with other rabbits?
Rabbits generally only get along if spayed or neutered! NEVER put two rabbits together without proper introduction, they are not "soft" they can and do kill each other. In most cases, even two does that are intact will fight unless they are siblings or mom/daughter. Fixed (spayed/neutered) rabbits absolutely LOVE a rabbit companion and, over time, they develop a deep bond that's wonderful to be a part of!
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Q: Do you fix the rabbit before it goes home?
A: I don’t provide fixed bunnies, but I can say to find a vet in your area with rabbit specific experience, it’s usually between $60 and 150 I believe. Neutering is much safer than spaying for rabbits. Also most unwanted behaviors in house rabbits are bucks wanting to breed anyway. Does are sassy and dig more than bucks either way in my experience. Spay can fix problem behavior and can help them avoid tumors later though.
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Q: Why is the pedigree more money?
A: Getting the pedigree with the rabbit allows you to show the rabbit, breed as a purebred, and register as a purebred with the ARBA. It’s the bloodline you’re buying with the papers. Most shows (per ARBA regulations) require pedigreed animals.
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Q: When can my bunny go home/ What are the stages of growth in baby bunnies?
A: Baby bunnies, or kits, for their first week are naked, eyes n ears closed; second week they start to see and hear, but they only sleep or "popcorn"; third week they start to check things out if you’re slow n easy; fourth week they start to explore on their own accord out of the nest box. By week five I can start sexing them and tell personalities well enough that this is when I start taking holds on individuals. I let the mother wean them, then they can go to their new homes, usually around eight weeks old but each litter is different.
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Q: Can you litter box train these rabbits?
A: They are easy to box train especially if you get them fixed. in the wild, rabbits keep their burrow clean and only potty while they come out to eat. This way they also fertilize their favorite plants. So to mimic this, here’s how I set up the litter trays:
Then I scoop any accident poops back in the litter box because smelling this helps them make the habit too. They usually like the box in a corner. Sometimes have to really secure it they’re mischievous. If they like to go in another spot it’s better to add more litter boxes right where they want to go and slowly wean them down to one or two in the house. Never use clay or clumping kitty litter. My favorite is "feline Pine" non-clumping pine pellets for kitties. Small animal bedding, like the newspaper based fluff, is great; avoid oily wood shavings (never use cedar, harmful oils to breath for rabbits).
Q: I have a question that's not on here!?
A: Contact me at cascadiarabbits@gmail.com, I'm happy to teach all things rabbit, thanks for your interest!
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