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Housing and Care


For learning about rabbit behavior, training, care, and more I highly recommend the website and books by THE HOUSE RABBIT SOCIETY.
-With one exception: Giants need to be FREE-FED PELLETS, always.
If your vet says otherwise, I say find a new one. Seriously. Free-feed pellets.


And be sure to read our comprehensive Q and A:

Care

Care of Flemish Giants is similar to other breeds of rabbit. They need quality rabbit pellet feed and fresh water available at all times (pellets come in 16% protein or 18%, we use the 16% and no one gets fat free-fed). Hay like timothy or orchard grass as a free-choice forage (not alfalfa that's a sugary treat). In addition, they love treats such as pieces of veggies and fruits, and grass (not clippings) and dandelion greens and yarrow (make sure they do not come in contact with pesticides or chemical fertilizers). They need their toe nails trimmed if they get long, using dog nail clippers but avoiding the quick. They benefit from being brushed in the spring and fall when they shed. Flemish are arguably the most cold tolerant breed of rabbits, in the worst winter weather they need hay to bed down in, inside a dry draft-free shelter... and a tip is to use heated outdoor dog water dishes (make sure the cord is out of reach). They don't do as well in the summer heat, always need a shady spot, and we offer each rabbit a frozen jug of water to lay against if it is going to hit mid-90's or hotter. Find a vet in your area who will see rabbits in case of any emergency, and have a pet carrier on hand. Indoor house rabbits are spared threats from harsh weather and predators. House rabbits act best if fixed. Rabbits thrive on stability and gentle friendships. Again they are prey animals so no chasing, grabbing, or negative reinforcement. 

 

Housing

Flemish Giants are often larger than your average house cat! the minimum cage space he needs is 2 ft x 4 ft however the larger the better! Flemish don't do well in standard hutches, they need a solid bottom cage (standing on wire all day causes serious damage to the feet of a 20 pound rabbit).  If he must be kept on wire bottom cage, make sure he has plenty of room to lay down on a wood board (at least 1x2ft) or other solid flooring. I add a ramp and ground level run to my standard hutches. All rabbits need a place that stays dry and is draft free in the winter and shady in the summer. We use roofing, tarps, and dog houses for this purpose. Flemish Giants benefit greatly from out-of-the-hutch time, in your house, in a dog run, pet play pen, or a securely fenced yard (with supervision, powerful diggers and climbers). They do dig very well so all our cages have hog panel bottoms buried an inch or so under the dirt.

Of course Flemish Giant's friendly nature makes them the perfect house rabbit! If fixed, they are easy to litterbox train like a cat! They can live loose in the house after training, but need the space to be bunny-proofed: mainly no chords in reach. These guys do get up on furniture. They wont be destructive if given wood chew toy(s) and, again, spayed/neutered. A XL wire dog kenel makes a perfect home base, safe place, and training area. Be sure there is food, water, a house/box//hidey hole, and litter box all attached to the wire. House rabbits become part of the family like an indoor cat- but a prey animal of course - like a tiny burrowing and gnawing horse, goat, or deer as your companion. Pictured below is a great example of a home-base for a house rabbit, and litter box set up. Again, check out our Q and A page for house rabbit set ups and training.

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A Look at our Flemish Barn: 

Cascadia Rabbitry's Flemish barn is log framing with pallet walls, there’s hog panels buried under everything, there’s chicken wire stapled to the pallets and to the two by two interior framing although 2x4 for all exterior framing, and heads up for home builds; urine will rust the chicken wire (in about two years it’ll need patching). 
 
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